If you want Malört, you go to Chicago. If you want Malört cocktails, you go to the Whistler and talk to co-owner Billy Helmkamp, creator of some of the most deranged recipes involving this locally-beloved wormwood cursewater.
Kelmkamp describes Lightning Swords of Death as the Whistler’s house Mai Tai riff, and says they use Letherbee’s Bësk instead of the usual Jeppson’s for its higher proof and deeper flavor.
The bitterness of wormwood definitely comes through no matter which brand you use, but the sweetness of the apricot and almond work together with Jamaican rum’s high-ester funk to keep it from dominating the drink, and the overall effect is so charming that you can’t help but come back for just one more sip.